balaboosta: "go and see 'em some time..."

the translation is "the perfect housewife," but say the yiddish term "balaboosta" to me (or better yet, "let's go to balaboosta") and the first thing i imagine is that most undomestic of goddesses, mae west, hip-leaning against a door frame, diamonds all down her décolletage, declaring in her best hollywood-by-way-of-brooklyn delivery, "i got ya ba-la-boos-ta right here..."

is my imagination a little wild?

it's nothing compared to the dishes coming out of einat admony's kitchen.

imagine a marriage of the falafel and the meatball. in the wrong hands, it's "feel awful" to the nth power. but at balaboosta, it's a savory bonbon. it's light and a well-proportioned ratio--equal parts grass-fed beef and ground chickpeas. (though perhaps they are smart to offer only three to a plate?) the trio comes to you with a tahini dipping sauce in a deceptively deep bowl. there will be some sauce left over, and you'll be aching for some sort of pita bread to swipe every last lick.

and then imagine grilled pizza, with carrot puree. you might fear the sweetness? in reality, it's not unlike the the sweetness of a tomato sauce, but without the acidity. it's suave, but earthy (like the grilled pizza dough it sits on) with creamy goat cheese to add a spike of salt and the merest tang. caramelized onions are more forwardly sweet, but the right touch.

crispy cauliflower is one of the best good/bad appetizers i've had. it's a deftly deep-fried affair, rendering the thick stalk more like tender meat--or even clean, freshly fried calamari? currants, pine nuts and the zing of citrus dressing give this dish the air of a high-toned salad rather than something possibly, deeply taboo. (it's a small plate, anyway. share it, and enjoy every bite.)

the patatas bravas here are catalan style--served with a garlic aioli. and these potatoes are fierce. don't skip them.

i will order them next time, for sure, along with the crispy cauliflower (take 2), fried olives, "mortar and pestle" hummus, grilled lamb chops (or chicken under a brick), and date-banana bread pudding...

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here are photos from the first visit:

libby: champagne, fresh pineapple, sage

cassava chips

crispy cauliflower with currants & pine nuts

falafel wrapped meatballs with tahini sauce

patatas bravas with za'atar and roasted garlic aïoli

grilled pizza with carrot purée, caramelized onions, goat cheese & cilantro

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special thank you to ms. mollie, for the recommendation. and ms. rachel for the company.