2011 Fashion

Adrian Ghenie /1977 in Baia Mare, Romania/ is a Romanian artist. He lives in Cluj-Napoca, Romania and Berlin.

After the completion of the University of Art and Design in Cluj-Napoca, Romania, in 2001, he had from 2006 international solo exhibitions in Romania, Germany,Switzerland, the United States and Great Britain.

In the summer of 2009 was published by Hatje Cantz publishing the first comprehensive monograph in which 70 works was presented on single pages.

In November 2009, he dedicated the National Museum of Contemporary Art in Bucharest, a first museum retrospective.

On Ghenie's paintings is a material mix of photos (edited) newspaper and videoclippings.

They are dominated by black and dark, gray are often depicted scenes that seem both realistic and indeterminate.

In his works, his fascination with history and the trauma is to recognize the dictatorship.

paintings by adrian Ghenie

I have several times had the chance to speak about my friends and their incredible creativity...

Today I'm talking about a friend who has a big part of my life and I'm proud of her because after working with designer like Yves St Laurent, Balanciaga, Rykiel and other geniuses, she found the courage to create her first fashion collection for men ....

Please Let Me Introduce You:

"Aurelia Paumelle made her first steps in Paris where she trained at the renowned Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne as a model maker. This classical background opened the doors of the most prestigious “maisons”: Loulou de la Falaise, Balanciaga, Rykiel and trendy Vanessa Bruno appreciated her impeccable technique. Amongst them, La Maison Yves St Laurent, where she learnt the importance and the rigour of a simple and articulate line.
In search of a more creative environment Aurelia started to work on men collections with a young Berliner designer. After six years in women fashion this new challenge unleashed her creativity and her taste for classic cuts blended with street-wear and a subtle mix of textures.

In her first collection, she offers a series of surprising/playful and elegant soft shades clothing.
Men are given options and opportunities to reveal their own identity and to adapt their look to changing circumstances.

She sets the tone through a series of tee-shirts with sleeves that can be rolled up and whose lining appears to be as essential as the form.
Based on the same principle, trousers made of wool, cotton and wool-jersey with buttons at the bottom of the leg, inspired by jogging, legging and suit trousers, look as elegant as they are comfortable and can be worn in or out of boots and trainers.

The sensuality of the material and the refined details of her jackets explore further the borders between different styles.

With her fresh and witty collection, Aurelia Paumelle`s gentle and innovative design makes a quiet assertion of each man distinctive nature and creates clothes that will definitely please women eyes also. "

Tell something about your personal ideas about fashion?

In fashion I have always been attracted by the most basic and simple features. They are for me essential to elegance:

Simple and pure line, perfect/creative cut, beautiful soft shade fabrics are the necessary ingredients for the perfect recipe. I always add beautiful details like interesting and contrasting fabrics for the lining that is so important to my design.

With my models, I just want to offer opportunities and I fancy the idea that the final shape is actually depending on the singularity and creativity of each man who is wearing my clothes. I trust men to adapt their look to the ever changing circumstances: after a meeting, they can roll-up the sleeves of their tee-shirt and wear their trousers inside the trainers to feel more comfortable and relaxed to go out.

2.How do you work day by day?

The great thing is that I can work where I sell my clothes. My studio and the he shop are in the same space and that brings an incredible energy. I like to create and be part of the city at the same time.

Most of my time is dedicated to my work on the mannequin. I sculpt first, it’s a 3d job, and eventually the general shape is coming out of the fabric, on the dummy. It’s only after the fitting that I create the pattern. I also draw sometimes, you know while I am working I need to work out my ideas and I draw. After making the drawing I realize quite often that something is wrong: the collar shape, the length of the sleeves or the future cutting. Finally I change the model and the drawing is not of any support anymore.

I also keep an eye on catwalks and look books from other designers but living in Berlin, I get most of my inspiration from people in the street. Berlin is such a fantastic melting pot of styles and influences. I enjoy so much people’s singularity here which, I think, helped me a lot to create my first collection. To be in this city as a foreigner without any social pressure gave me the freedom and the space to gather my ideas and develop my own style.

3.Your relation with the pieces and the customers?

The best scenario is when the clients step into the shop while I am there. They can try the cloth on and I can adjust the piece to make it fit perfectly. I like getting to know the different persons to understand the way they wear their clothes.Each man has his own way, according to his size, to his morphology and to his little complex that he secretly wants to hide
I have a book where I keep records of some of my customer’s measurements with a picture. It's actually really helpful to understand the various body shapes.

I would like to create clothes that suit different kind of morphologies and lifestyles. That's why in my look book I choose guys who all have different body, colours and sexuality etc...
I want to improve my creations and I love the idea of responding to my clients` requests in order to make them feel beautiful. To me, this attention to details, even to the invisible ones, is closely akin to beauty and elegance.